Creating a densely planted aquarium full of colors such as red, pink, and yellow requires what is called a high-tech setup. High-tech planted aquariums require CO2 systems and higher output lights due to the demands of the type of plants used and to achieve faster growth in all varieties of plants.
We are using the Waterbox Aquariums Clear 3620 with FLED freshwater light and Sicce Space EKO 300 canister filter for this setup.
When preparing a new aquarium, ensure it is perfectly level. Use a level to check side-to-side and front-to-back alignment, making necessary adjustments before filling it. It's wise to recheck the level as you start adding water to account for any floor settling underneath.
There are many varieties of freshwater plant substrates to choose from and they all are an acceptable choice, but you want to take a few things into consideration when deciding.
Certain substrates contain nutrients, offering plants a head start with built-in fertilizer. If opting for a substrate lacking nutrients, regular root tab additions will be necessary to nourish the plant roots effectively.
What grain size to use is another decision you will need to make. Larger pebbles are not ideal for planted aquariums so choose a sand or small grain size substrate for the best results.
We are using CaribSea Eco-Complete Black which not only has nutrients for your plants but also contains beneficial bacteria to help stabilize your aquarium faster. This substrate does not need to be rinsed before use but depending on the type you choose to use it may need to be rinsed to remove fine particles which will cloud the aquarium and clog up your filter relatively quickly.
Begin by adding the substrate to the aquarium. If there’s an area that needs to be elevated, start building it up now. Smooth out the substrate as you go to ensure it is deep enough for the plant roots.
When selecting wood for your aquarium, consider your vision for the setup and the available space. Avoid feeling overwhelmed by the variety of options; choose thoughtfully based upon how you plan to design the aquascaping. This Matanzanita Wood piece was selected for its intricate branches and ideal size, allowing it to extend above the water line.
Before adding anything else to the aquarium determine the placement and at what angle you want your wood to be. If the wood has not been presoaked, it will float when adding water so weighing it down with a large rock or attaching it to something heavy is ideal.
Zip ties and a heavy rock are effective for this task, though you have the option of using glue or screws to secure the wood to a large object. Use smaller rocks to elevate the wood to the desired angle and position. As you fill the aquarium, the substrate and plants will conceal any visible rocks or zip ties.
When using CaribSea Dragon Stone for the rock in your aquarium, you'll notice its fantastic texture, but it may arrive with plenty of dirt in the crevices. Before placing it in the tank, thoroughly scrub the rock to remove any accumulated dirt, paying special attention to the deeper sections.
Now that the rock is clean, start placing it to create the levels or scape that you want. Dragon stone has a very dramatic appearance that works nicely to create a border between higher and lower levels. Once the rock is in place, build up the substrate in any areas created by it.
To accelerate the process of filling in the foreground, we opted for a sizable carpet of Monte Carlo, cutting sections to fit the edges neatly. It's easier to position the mat without water in the tank, pressing it into the substrate to prevent floating once add water. Alternatively, smaller foreground plants can be used, gradually filling in the space.
For the rest of the plants, we are using a variety of stem plants which have a more fragile stem, so it is suggested to fill the aquarium with water before planting. The water will provide support to the plants and lessen the chance of damage.
Bunch plants are individual stems wrapped together so you will want to remove the banding and separate the stems. Removing the first inch or two of the leaves is recommended since this section will be placed into the substrate. This will encourage new growth and prevent any rot from the decaying leaves. You can also cut down the stems of the plants to shorten their height for midground planting.
If you are using potted plants, it is important to remove both the plastic pot and the growing medium before planting. Keeping them in the pots can reduce growth and the ability to spread for most plant types.
Enhance your planting experience with the Waterbox Aquascaping Tool Kit, enabling precise placement of each stem in the substrate. The use of straight or angled tweezers significantly simplifies this task, making it more efficient and less likely to damage the plant stem.
When planting, group the same plant together and space them closely to achieve a bushy appearance. When incorporating various plant varieties, carefully plan the layout. Ensure plants with matching colors or leaf types are spaced out to enhance the overall aesthetic appeal.
For instance, positioning two red plants side by side may cause them to overshadow each other, unlike when they are mixed among various colors. Arranging plants with distinct leaf structures in close proximity enables each one to create a striking contrast to the rest.
Once the aquarium is fully planted, install and turn on your filtration. We use and recommend the Sicce Space EKO canister filters. For the Clear 3620 we are using the Sicce Space EKO 300.
With our Matanzanita wood sticking out above the water line, when installing the Waterbox freshwater LED light some trimming of the branches is needed to allow proper centered placement of the light.
A CO2 system is one of the main pieces of equipment that makes a high-tech aquarium different than low-tech. This system adds carbon dioxide to the aquarium's water. Carbon dioxide is a fuel source for plants which in turns equals better coloration and growth.
When choosing a CO2 system, we highly recommend spending a little more and purchasing one with a controller. The controller will make fine-tuning your CO2 system much easier and protect against overdosing CO2, which can be detrimental to your aquarium. Without a controller you need to closely monitor your daily pH levels and the swing that occurs when you run CO2.
Rainbow fish are a great choice for planted aquariums, so we chose a large group of male Rainbowfish as the centerpiece for this set up.
When you are preparing to add fish to your new aquarium make sure to use a bacteria supplement like Waterbox Aquarium Starter Bacteria to ensure build up the proper beneficial bacteria in the system. You will still want to monitor the water quality regularly to ensure there is no ammonia or nitrite spike.
For a smooth transition of new fish into your aquarium, proper acclimation is key. This method helps the fish adjust to your tank's unique water conditions, such as temperature, pH levels, and water hardness. The process is straightforward - all you require is a bucket or container and some airline tubing.
Transfer all the fish to the container and add water conditioner to help alleviate stress. Begin a siphon from one end of the airline tubing in the aquarium and secure a knot at the other end to control the drip into the fish container.
Adjust the knot as needed to manage the drip rate. You want to acclimate for about 30 to 45 minutes, doubling the water volume in the container.
Introduce the fish to the aquarium after acclimation. Remember to consistently add the starter bacteria for the initial two weeks and regularly test your water for ammonia and nitrite levels.
